Timberline Tree Service

tree care and education

Welcome to the world of tree care! In the left hand column you will find links to the many maintenance duties you can do to help keep your landscape trees healthy and safe. The accompanying chart highlights the most favorable timing for the listed tree care activities.

Overall, periods of weather extremes (e.g., drought or high winds) should be avoided when planting, transplanting, fertilizing and pruning. The information available in this website provides a place to start for tree and shrub care.

Have fun!

Installation - Plant

Planting is the act of placing a young tree or shrub that is either barerooted, balled and burlapped (B&B), or containerized into the ground to grow.  If for any reason the plants cannot be planted immediately, make sure the soil and/or roots are kept moist until the time of planting.

In the Midwest region, tree planting of bareroot trees and shrubs is best done when the plants are dormant in the spring or at the end of the growing season (fall).  Balled and burlapped (B&B), containerized and container grown plants can be planted throughout the growing season, but with caution during the summer months.  During the summer, heat and periods of drought are tough on newly planted trees and shrubs.

Make sure you have the ability to water the trees and shrubs as needed; therefore, do not plant more than you can maintain.

Often the installation of trees and shrubs involves transplanting- the act of digging trees and shrubs from a site (e.g. nursery) and planting them in your landscape. This digging can result in the loss of ~90% of a tree's root system; thus, some plants need a long growing season following this tranplanting to recover from the root loss. Therefore, the list below highlights trees and shrubs that have the highest survivability when transplanted in the SPRING.

Plants that were dug in the spring and kept in the garden center (e.g. root balls that are mulched or wrapped) generally have root systems that are further along in the recovery process and may be successfully planted in the fall.

Fall planting has the advantage of warmer soils, as compared to spring planting, with cooler air temperatures. During this time the roots can establish before the high heat of summer starts the following year. Ideally, before the soil freezes, soil temperatures remain above 40 degrees Fahrenheit for four weeks after planting. All species planted in the fall, especially conifers, require an ample water supply for winter protection.

Species to Transplant in Spring
Almond (Prunus spp.)	Hawthorn species (Crataegus spp.)	Oak (Quercus spp.)
Apricot (Prunus spp.)	Hawthorn, cockspur (Crataegus crusgalli)	Pawpaw, common (Asiminia triloba)
Baldcypress (Taxodium spp.)	Hemlock (Tsuga spp.)	Paulownia, royal (Paulownia tomentosa)
Beech (Fagus spp.)	Hickory (Carya spp.)	Peach (Prunus spp.)
Beech, American (Fagus grandifolia)	Holly, American (Ilex opaca)	Pear, callery (Pyrus callergana)
Beech, European (Fagus sylvatica)	Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos)	Pecan (Carya spp.)
Birch (Betula spp.)	Hornbeam, American (Carpinus caroliniana)	Persimmon, common (Diospyros virginiana)
Birch, European white (Betula pendula)	Hornbeam, European (Carpinus betulus)	Plum (Prunus spp.)
Birch, River (Betula nigra)	Horsechestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum)	Plum, cherry (Prunus cerasifera)
Buckeye, Bottlebrush (Aesculus parviflora)	Horsechestnut, ruby red	Pine, jack (Pinus banksiana)
Butternut (Juglans spp.)	Ironwood, American hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana)	Pine, pondersoa (Pinus ponderosa)
Cedar, red (Juniperus virginiana)	Katsuratree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum)	Poplar (Populus spp.)
Cherry (Prunus spp.)	Laburnum (Laburnum spp.)	Sassafras (Sassafras albidum)
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.)	Larch (Larix spp.)	Silverbell (Halesia spp.)
Corktree, amur (Phellodendron amurense)	Larch, golden (Pseudolarix amabilis)	Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum)
Cypress (Taxodium spp.)	Linden, silver (Tilia tomentosa)	Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua)
Daphne (Daphne spp.)	Magnolia (Magnolia spp.)	Tuliptree (Liriodendron tulipifera)
Dogwood, flowering (Cornus floria)	Magnolia, Cucumbertree (Magnolia acuminata)	Tupelo, Black gum, Sour gum (Nyssa sylvatica)
Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)	Magnolia, southern (Magnolia grandiflora)	Walnut (Juglans spp.)
Goldenraintree (Koelreuteria paniculata)	Maple, paperbark (Acer griseum)	Walnut, black (Juglans nigra)
False cypress (Chamaecyparis spp.)	Maple, Red (Acer rubrum)	Willow (Salix spp.)
Fir (Abies spp.)	Maple, sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus)	Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentukea)
Fringetree, white (Chionanthus virginicus)	Maple, trident (Acer buergerianum)	Yew (Taxus spp.)
Source: Dirr, 1998; Himelick, 1981; Watson and Himelick, 1997

Installation - Transplant

Transplanting is defined as: the digging (aka. uprooting) of a plant from one location for the purpose of moving it to a new location. Typically, during this type of move lots of roots are lost. 

Species to Transplant in Spring
Almond (Prunus spp.)	Hawthorn species (Crataegus spp.)	Oak (Quercus spp.)
Apricot (Prunus spp.)	Hawthorn, cockspur (Crataegus crusgalli)	Pawpaw, common (Asiminia triloba)
Baldcypress (Taxodium spp.)	Hemlock (Tsuga spp.)	Paulownia, royal (Paulownia tomentosa)
Beech (Fagus spp.)	Hickory (Carya spp.)	Peach (Prunus spp.)
Beech, American (Fagus grandifolia)	Holly, American (Ilex opaca)	Pear, callery (Pyrus callergana)
Beech, European (Fagus sylvatica)	Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos)	Pecan (Carya spp.)
Birch (Betula spp.)	Hornbeam, American (Carpinus caroliniana)	Persimmon, common (Diospyros virginiana)
Birch, European white (Betula pendula)	Hornbeam, European (Carpinus betulus)	Plum (Prunus spp.)
Birch, River (Betula nigra)	Horsechestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum)	Plum, cherry (Prunus cerasifera)
Buckeye, Bottlebrush (Aesculus parviflora)	Horsechestnut, ruby red	Pine, jack (Pinus banksiana)
Butternut (Juglans spp.)	Ironwood, American hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana)	Pine, pondersoa (Pinus ponderosa)
Cedar, red (Juniperus virginiana)	Katsuratree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum)	Poplar (Populus spp.)
Cherry (Prunus spp.)	Laburnum (Laburnum spp.)	Sassafras (Sassafras albidum)
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.)	Larch (Larix spp.)	Silverbell (Halesia spp.)
Corktree, amur (Phellodendron amurense)	Larch, golden (Pseudolarix amabilis)	Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum)
Cypress (Taxodium spp.)	Linden, silver (Tilia tomentosa)	Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua)
Daphne (Daphne spp.)	Magnolia (Magnolia spp.)	Tuliptree (Liriodendron tulipifera)
Dogwood, flowering (Cornus floria)	Magnolia, Cucumbertree (Magnolia acuminata)	Tupelo, Black gum, Sour gum (Nyssa sylvatica)
Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)	Magnolia, southern (Magnolia grandiflora)	Walnut (Juglans spp.)
Goldenraintree (Koelreuteria paniculata)	Maple, paperbark (Acer griseum)	Walnut, black (Juglans nigra)
False cypress (Chamaecyparis spp.)	Maple, Red (Acer rubrum)	Willow (Salix spp.)
Fir (Abies spp.)	Maple, sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus)	Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentukea)
Fringetree, white (Chionanthus virginicus)	Maple, trident (Acer buergerianum)	Yew (Taxus spp.)
Source: Dirr, 1998; Himelick, 1981; Watson and Himelick, 1997

Maintenance - Water

Providing adequate water is one of the most important things you can do to establish and maintain tree health. Watering newly planted/transplanted trees regularly for 3-5 years is critical in establishing healthy trees. Yearly rainfall amounts may or may not be adequate for new trees in the landscape or for established trees; therefore, pay particular attention during the summer and/or periods of drought. Established trees only need to be watered during drought-like conditions. Water until the ground freezes to help reduce the amount of winter damage.

Unfortunately there is no recipe that can be followed with watering. Factors such as soil type and weather patterns are different for every area (Sivyer et al., 1997). A general estimate is that a mature tree can lose up to 238 gallons of water per day under warm, sunny conditions (Vrecenak, 1988). With that in mind the following recommendations should be followed.

Before watering any tree or shrub check soil moisture with a trowel or metal rod. With the trowel, dig 6-8" deep into the soil and feel the soil moisture content. Or, with the metal rod check for ease of penetration- dry soils resist penetration. Water the entire root system to a depth of ~12" and be careful not to over-water in poorly drained (soggy) soils.

You can water with a soaker hose, garden hose, sprinkler, or by drip irrigation. Make sure the entire root system is reached.

For watering, keep in mind that ~625 gallons of water reaches 1000 square feet to a depth of 1". Hoses emit water at different rates... ~1-6 gallons per minute. To test the emission rate of your hose, fill a garden bucket to measure your particular amount per minute. Remember that percolation rates will vary depending on soil type.

Mulch

Mulching with organic mulches (e.g. leaves, needles, hardwood and softwood bark and wood, grass, cocoa hulls, straw, etc.) helps to maintain tree health by aiding in water retention, inhibiting weed development, protecting from lawn mowing equipment, offering a layer of insulation during cold weather and adding organic matter into the soil (Carlson, 2003). At planting or transplanting time add a mulch layer 2-4" deep around the tree as wide as you can tolerate but, to avoid stem damage, not against the trunk. Mature trees can be mulched at any time.

Over time this mulch will break down and decompose; therefore it is important to make the necessary additions each year. Before making any additions, lightly and thoroughly rake existing mulch to break up compacted or crusted layers (Carlson, 2003b). Mulching may act as an alternative to fertilization if coarse wood chips or leaves are used (Hagen, 2003).

Pruning Evergreen Branches

Removal of weak, diseased, or broken branches, along with double leaders or dead evergreen branches can be done at any time with little consequence to tree health. "Conifers may be pruned any time of year, but pruning during the dormant season may minimize sap and resin flow from cut branches" (Bedker et al., 1996).

The following lists are of conifer diseases affecting certain conifer plants. Pruning of these plants should NOT be done during WARM, WET periods of the year (i.e. spring into summer)

Species affected by Rhizosphaera Needle Cast

Evergreen Shrub Shearing

Evergreen shrub shearing is a practice that can be used to maintain a geometric and formal shape of the plant. It is important to note, however, that once a shape has been formed yearly maintenance is required to preserve the design.

Appropriate times are highlighted to show a general rule that is appropriate for most species (e.g. pine, spruce, fir, yew, arborvitae). The accompanying link highlights specific timings for the different evergreen species based on the different growth characteristics.

Pruning Deciduous Branches

How to prune trees is an excellent publication designed to illustrate the types of pruning that can be done, how pruning cuts are made, when to prune different plants, and more. 

Shrubs:
Pruning cuts made to deciduous shrub branches are the same as pruning cuts made to all trees; however, types of pruning styles are special for deciduous shrubs.  How to properly prune deciduous shrubs (.pdf) highlights techniques of thinning, rejuvenation, shearing, pinching and deadheading. Shrubs to Behead details the strategy of rejuventation pruning along with species that respond best to this treatment.

Trees:
Waiting until the plant is dormant is the safest time to do any live-branch pruning.  However, unless the tree or shrub is susceptible to infectious disease (e.g., oak wilt, fire blight), removal of weak, diseased, crossing, rubbing, or dead limbs can be done throughout the year if needed.

The following table is grouped by infectious diseases and is a partial list of trees and shrubs that should NOT be pruned during the SPRING to EARLY FALL:

Northern species affected by oak wilt	Species affected by fire blight
White oak (Quercus alba)	Mt. Ash (Sorbus spp.)
Bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa)	Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.)
Swamp white oak  (Quercus bicolor)	Hawthorne (Crataegus spp.)
Chinquapin oak (Quercus muehlenbergii)	Quince (Cydonia sp.)
Northern red oak (Quercus rubra)	Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)
Northern pin oak (Quercus ellipsoidalis)	Firethorn (Pyracantha sp.)
Black oak (Quercus velutina)	Spirea (Spiraea spp.)
Scarlet oak (Quercus coccinea)	Pear (Pyrus spp.)
Chestnut oak (Quercus montana)	Crabapple and apple (Malus spp.)
Blackjack oak (Quercus marilandica)	Lilac (Syringa spp.)
Shumard oak (Quercus shumardii)	Cherry (Prunus spp.)
Shingle oak (Quercus imbricaria)	Apricot (Prunus spp.)
American chestnut (Castanea dentata)	Chokecherry (Prunus spp.)
Tanbark oak (Lithocarpus densiflorus)
Southern species affected by oak wilt
Live oak (Quercus virginiana)
Scrub live oak (Quercus fusiformis)
Southern red oak (Quercus falcata)
Water oak (Quercus nigra)
Spanish oak (Quercus buckleyi)

For more information: How to Identify, Prevent, and Control Oak Wilt; Fireblight

Pruning of the following listed diseases and affected plants should not be done during WARM, WET periods of the year (i.e. spring).   

Species affected by black Knot	Species affected by cankers
Black cherry (Prunus serotina)	Tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima)
Common chokecherry (Prunus virginina)	Hickory (Carya spp.)
Wild plum (Prunus americana)	Dogwood, flowering (Cornus floria)
	Holly, American (Ilex opaca)
	Walnut (Juglans sp.)
	Elm (Ulmus spp.)
	Oak (Quercus spp.)
	Persimmon, common (Diospyros virginiana)

Staking/Guying

Staking and guying of trees is rarely needed and is only necessary when the tree will not stand up on its own. These practices may be necessary for 1-3 years while roots are growing and beginning to stabilize the tree. Check attachment points on the stem every 3 to 6 months, loosen if necessary and remove within one year of placement.

Fertilizing

From an environmental quality and tree health perspective, all fertilizing of trees is recommended only in a case-by-case situation in the landscape. Fertilizing is not recommended unless nutrients are proven deficient in a soil sample tested by a laboratory or by a trained eye observing a deficiency in a plant’s foliage. 

The recommendations in this chart refer only to nitrogen applications.  Before fertilizing your landscape with a complete fertilizer (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium), contact a soil testing laboratory for a basic soil test. A basic soil test will provide you with readings on organic matter, pH, cation exchange capacity, macronutrients and micronutrients (Smiley, 2003).  Soil testing laboratories may offer timing and quantity recommendations for complete fertilizers (N-P-K). 

For information on selecting a soils lab for testing visit Guidelines for Choosing a Soil-Testing Labratory. Once criteria have been determined for selecting an appropriate soil lab, visit University Related Plant Disease and Soil Testing Services (.pdf) to find the lab nearest you. 

Nitrogen needs are not usually highlighted on soils test.  Standard soil tests do not include total nitrogen readings since nitrogen is present in so many forms and is so mobile. According Dr. Kim Coder, adding (aka. "dumping") too much nitrogen at one time can increase the plant’s susceptibility to insects and diseases, decrease drought tolerance, and can pollute waterways (1997).  It has been determined that high nitrogen use efficiency is achieved when trees are leafed out. 

Application rate is critical: NEVER exceed package recommendations.  Do not apply on hot, dry and/or frozen soils.  Avoid nitrogen applications from leaf drop to bud break because uptake is minimal and pollution may occur.

For more information : Tree Nutrition Series: Nitrogen Perscription for Trees

Stem Protection

The stems of landscape trees and shrubs may need protection from animals or mechanical equipment, especially during the winter months. Animal damage (feeding or rubbing) can be avoided by placing wire mesh or hardware cloth at least 3" from the stem. Mechanical damage (e.g. lawn mower or weed whip abrasion) can be avoided when a mulch ring (see MULCH section) or a plastic guard is in place. The plastic guard should only encase the portion of the lower stem that is most likely to be damaged by lawn equipment. As the tree grows the plastic guard will need to be removed and replaced in order to prevent girdling or stem constriction.

Branches and Foliage Protection

Ice and snow loading damage can be severe during cold, wet winters on multi-stemmed evergreen trees and shrubs (e.g. junipers, arborvitae, and yews). The overall form of the plant can be protected when the branches are secured with twine or burlap.

Emerald Ash Borer

Emerald ash borer (EAB) is an exotic beetle that was discovered in southeastern Michigan near Detroit in the summer of 2002. In North America, it has only been found in ash trees. Trees in woodlots as well as landscaped areas are affected. Larval galleries have been found in trees or branches measuring as little as 1-inch in diameter. All species of North American ash appear to be susceptible.

When an Ash tree has been infected the canopy begins to thin above infested portions of the trunk and major branches because the borer destroys the water and nutrient conducting tissues under the bark. Heavily infested trees exhibit canopy die-back usually starting at the top of the tree. One-third to one-half of the branches may die in one year. Most of the canopy will be dead within 2 years of when symptoms are first observed. Sometimes ash trees push out sprouts from the trunk after the upper portions of the tree dies. Although difficult to see, the adult beetles leave a "D"-shaped exit hole in the bark, roughly 1/8 inch in diameter, when they emerge in June.

For more information : www.emeraldashborer.info

Health

Keep a watchful eye for problems that may be developing on the plants in your landscape. Timely prevention is always more effective and economical than reacting to problems once they have developed.  Certain samples can be sent to your local Plant Disease Clinic (.pdf) for diagnosis.

For more information : Diagnosing Tree Health Problems (.pdf) and Forest and Shade Tree Health

If damages are observed and if Plant Health Care (PHC) treatments are necessary, contact us for an on-site diagnosis.

Safety

Inspect your landscape trees and shrubs often- especially after storms.  After storms, hazard trees with loosely hanging branches or split trunks need to be removed as soon as possible to avoid any damage to buildings, people, and to other trees or shrubs. 

At other times of the year keep a watchful eye for developing decay in trunks and roots, broken and hanging branches, dead branches or trees, an abnormally leaning tree, or anything that may indicate that a tree or part of it could fail and cause damage or injury.

Timberline can offer advice on which plants should be removed, which ones can be saved, and if Plant Health Care (PHC) treatments are necessary.

For more information : How to Recognize Hazardous Defects in Trees and Hazard Tree Prevention

education listing

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